High-Five Adventurers: Lalibela, Ethiopia
Craig and Erin's mutual love of travel helped bring them together and it wasn't long before they were creating their own patches and applying for matching visas. Long-term travel is liberating and awe-inspiring, but it can also have some true moments of stress. When Erin and Craig started exploring the world together, they came up with a plan to high-five to a cheer of, "Adventure!" any time the travel gods threw them a curve ball. Since then, they've travelled through over 20 countries together successfully to add to the 30-some patches that already adorned their packs.The swish of white robesdampened the echoes penetrating the village's pathways. Dawn had broken behind a thick mist, and the priests were already awake and chanting. Following their mesmerizing drone and encouraged by the building drum rhythms, we descended a steep path that was still wet from the previous night's mountain rain. We slipped quietly between worshippers and paused to feel the reverence around us. The air vibrated with whispered prayers and provided a stark contrast to our arrival in Lalibela the day before.
Unknowingly, we'd scheduled our flight to Ethiopia's second holiest city on a Saturday, Market Day. The windy dirt road that led up the mountain to town had been flooded with villagers taking their wares to trade. The cobblestone streets bustled with people hauling bags of grains, pulling leashed goats, and balancing impossibly wide loads overhead. Children wove in and around the adults chasing each other, and flocking to us wanting to show us around. They practised their English and boasted their geography skills by repeating diligently, "Canada: capital city, Ottawa!" There was a friendly feeling in the air.
Lalibela is famous for its rock-hewn churches, dug deep into the rock-bed. Many of the 13 churches are a single piece of stone and have stood for over 900 years.. It's a pilgrimage site for the Ethiopian Orthodox Christians of the country, and it practically hums with the stories of years gone by. For our first visit, we hired a guide, who led us through the Northern group of churches, giving us an overview of their importance. Dubbed “The Petra of Africa,” the detail of the carvings inside and out was just breath-taking. Thick embroidered rugs donned the floors and many churches had huge layered curtains protecting the areas reserved for priests like an armour of scales. . The heavy rains that fell each evening brightened the reddish walls and fed the contrasting green moss, which hid in shadowed corners. Beyond less tourist traffic, visiting in the rainy-season also provided a surprising view as the churches were complemented by the verdant peaks of the surrounding valley.
As compelling as our morning tour was, it was our second visit to the churches that was magical. We chose to navigate the Eastern and Western groups on our own, headlamps in hand, and took pleasure in
exploring dusty corners in hushed silence. Little did we know that the next day would bring us an even bigger treat.
It didn't matter that we didn't understand the words being spoken; there was no denying the power of this devoted congregation covering the rocks and hills in all directions. There was no better way to begin a trip delving into our ancient past than in the cradle of civilization, and humanity itself, in Ethiopia.